CHOOSE THE RIGHT CONDITIONS AND LOCATION

Suggest not trying to learn when the waves are larger than 3 feet.  Try specifically for small clean conditions and low tide.  This will give you a better chance at actually getting outside where you need to be without getting too exhausted.  If you choose a sandy beach break, the low tide should allow you to walk out a reasonable distance in waist deep water.  It is also not advised to use a primary surfing areas as they are mostly crowded and a bit more dangerous for a beginning surfer.  Recommend looking for a place with a sandy bottom just down from the crowd but within sight of other surfers and maybe a lifeguard. 

Paddling is the most important thing when you are learning to surf and the most important thing to remember about paddling is that you must be perfectly balanced while lying on your board.  “ONE INCH” too far forward and you will force the front end down, “ONE INCH” too far back and this will create too much resistance to paddle effectively.  If you do not do this properly, you will exhaust yourself!  Watch very closely as a good surfer paddles by you. 


 

Catching waves will take some time and you will experience the learning curve that we have all gone through.  Notice how the better surfers are usually farther out from everyone else and how they will position themselves perfectly to catch the wave.  The older and experienced surfers are usually in the perfect position for the larger and better waves.  They will also adjust quickly to place themselves in the perfect position to catch the wave before it breaks using only a couple of strokes to catch a wave.  Do not let the wave come to you!  You must paddle to adjust for the best position.  Watch a good surfer do this and you will know exactly what I mean.  This begins by watching the horizon closely for any approaching set.  This is important; if you start paddling outside too late you will not be outside far enough and could be right in the impact zone.  Watch other surfers and if you see anyone paddling outside…go!  It is always best to be the first surfer paddling outside.  When paddling for a wave do not turn back and look because this breaks your forward momentum, instead twist your head for a peek without breaking your forward rhythm.  As you get better you will be able to sense where you are and rely more on timing.  It will also help if you are able to stop outside for just a few seconds to catch your breath before you turn your board around and start paddling for a wave.  This mini-break, if well timed can be the difference between catching and missing the wave of the day.  Angle towards the shoulder without breaking momentum; stand up smoothly and quickly in one movement. 



Stand up smoothly and quickly trying to get your front foot in the proper position initially.  Your front foot should be in the center and slightly above the halfway point of the board.  Your rear foot should be in the center about six inches above the deck plug.  These are generalized placing and every surfer may be a little different.  You must get up quickly with your feet in the right position!  If you have to adjust your feet after you stand up the wave time to outrace you.  You can also make some type of a mark on your board if you have to.  The key is getting your feet positioned quickly, especially your front foot.  Keep all of your weight forward and do not lean back.  You are a 'regular' foot if you stand with your left foot forward, or a 'goofy' foot with right foot forward. 

Duck diving is the term we use for pushing under waves.  If you can’t do this well you will not be able to get out in larger surf and not be an effective paddler.  This is an art that must be learned by experience and practice.  While I can provide some basic principles and a few tips, this is something that will take time to master.  To begin with, this can usually only be done with shorter boards that you can sink well.  Long boards have too much foam for the to sink effectively and require other methods.  The concept is that you are sinking your board underneath the wave energy while the wave moves over top of you.  If you sink your board at just the right time the wave will break right over you and you will pop out the back still with forward momentum.  Timing is critical because if you push down too early you will pop up in front of the breaking wave and be in a dangerous position.  Push down too late and you will not be deep enough to be effective.  Start by paddling to adjust for the best possible place to push under.  Keep in mind that there is less energy where the wave has already broken and avoid the spot where a wave will break right on top of you.  Put your hands on each rail just above the midpoint of the board and sink the front of the board while using ONE foot to push down equally on the rear of the board around the traction pad.  The board will go down easier if you start to push one rail down before the other “knifing” the rail down on an edge.  Mind how deep the water is so you don’t hit the bottom. If you are over a reef, be even more careful of water depth.  Also keep in mind that you are pushing under the strongest part of the wave, the throwing lip!  You do not want to be where the lip lands when it throws as this is always the shallowest point.  If the lip hits you square it will force your head into your board and could drive you and your board into the bottom.  This is the cause of many injuries and broken boards.