Surfing Equipment
Surfboards can be broken down into three categories; long boards, short boards, and big wave boards - all of which evolved from the early Polynesians? The early boards were cut from heavy slabs of wood (Koa); had a blunt nose, no rocker, little rail or tail design, and no sealant to prevent water intrusion. They were finless and were actually steered by dragging a leg or foot! The next generation of equipment incorporated balsa wood and the first use of sealants. These were still rough models that offered very little performance.
This was followed by the foam and fiberglass era. While lighter and more maneuverable than their predecessors, these designs were still heavy and difficult to turn. As surfers moved to more challenging waves they discovered the need for a different type of surfboard. The single fin era of the 1970’s incorporated narrow models that allowed the surfers to ride steeper waves like Pipeline. These boards used a single adjustable fin. The next major change involved the development of the twin fin. Like the early single fins, the early twin fins were rough in design. However, they were fast and very functional in smaller waves. As the design improved it became the first board that allowed performance to really advance. The last major surfboard evolution came with the addition of a third fin or ‘thruster’. This design added the stability of the single fin and maneuverability of the twin fin. Following all these advances in design and years of testing by top professionals, designs have evolved into the modern short board. Further advancements in materials evolved into the modern surfboards that we are riding today.
Big Waves boards are designed and used specifically for large powerful waves. They start in the 7’ range and goes to 9+’. They are narrow in design, typically 18”, and are built on a strong foam blank with a heavy duty stringer. This photo shows some of the surfboards used by legendary big-wave surfer Mark Foo of Hawaii. These designs allow experienced riders to paddle into waves in the 30+ range. While the larger board allows a ‘paddling’ surfer to get into a fast moving wave, the ‘tow in’ surfer does not require the same ability. They use a jet ski to ‘tow’ and then ‘sling shot’ a surfer into large waves before they break. Tow boards are equipped with foot-straps similar to those on a snowboard that prevent the surfer from being bounced off.
General Surfboard Design
General board type describes whether it is a long board, short board, or big wave design. Measurements include; length, width, nose width, tail width, thickness, tail design, and rocker. Other specifications include; fin configuration, blank type, glassing details, and coloring. Surfboards basic dimensions are usually inscribed on the board along the stringer. They should look something like 5' 10”X 20" X 2.25". This indicates that the board is; 5 feet ten inches in length, twenty inches wide at the widest point and two and a quarter thick. Length is the measurement from nose to tail. The width is the measurement taken at the board’s widest point. The nose width is taken 12” from the nose, and the tail width is taken 12” up from the tail. The thickness of the board is measured at the thickest point. Keep in mind that the thickness is typically determined by the weight of the rider as a heavy person will require more foam. The photo above shows; Length 5'10", Serial # 6835, nose width 15 7/8", wide point 20", tail width 16", thickness 2 1/4" and the shapers initials
The nose-rocker is the upward curve on the front half of the board; tail rocker is the upward curve on the back of the board. If there is too much rocker in the design the board will have too much resistance, too little and the nose will catch and submerge easily. This is a very important part of surfboard design. Get the correct rocker and you will have a fast board that does not bog, pearl, or catch edges. Too much curve will cause additional resistance and affect performance. Most manufacturers have machines that create this important feature. Unless a board is molded to duplication it generally cannot be duplicated by hand. Close but not really. The tail design is usually the preference of the individual. Types of tail designs include pin, rounded-pin, squash, swallow, and bat tail. The more popular and designs include the squash for average type surf, and the pin for more powerful type waves. Larger and more powerful waves typically utilize narrow designs and a narrow tail such as a pin. There are typically three types of surfboard material; fiberglass, epoxy, and composites. Each of these materials have advantages and drawbacks. Fiberglass is the traditional method, these are sensitive handcrafted blades but lack durability; epoxy is a more recently developed technology that added strength without adding weight, but is considered to be somewhat brittle. Composites incorporate multiple layers for incredible strength and durability. When ordering a custom fiberglass or epoxy board you can specify the type of blank or “foam-core” to be used. These range in density and strength; the lighter material intended for professional use. The way the board is glassed is also per preference. The standard polyester board is glassed with two layers of 4 ounce fiberglass cloth on each side but vary with each manufacturer. The pros use feather light fragile boards, but also get them for free.
Most people tend to be attracted to the boards that everyone else is riding and usually end up with a high-performance model designed for an advanced surfer. While very functional, these are not the best models to learn on! You don't want something that is too long, too short, or that will not float you properly. Suggest looking for a board in the 8' - 9' range and around 19" - 20" wide. Choosing the right board will make it much easier.
Fins
The fin configuration is also important, each type of board can use a custom fin configuration, however, and 90% of all boards today typically utilize the standard three-fin configuration. Note, the right, left, and center fin are not interchangeable. While older boards used fins that were glassed on, most surfers today prefer the removable fin system. This allows the surfer to adjust fin type, and size. This system is much better for travel by allowing more boards to fit snugly together into your board bag. While there are several types of removable fin systems they all typically use a hex key to hold the fin in place. Make sure that you do not over-tighten these as this will damage the plastic. This can be fixed but it is an expensive repair.
Leashes
The leash is a connection between surfer and surfboard and should be considered a safety feature. The first leashes were simple pieces of cord attached to the fin of the board and tied around the leg or foot. These changed to bungee cord, and then advanced to the modern style polyurethane cords with padded ankle straps and quick release pins. Leashes for small waves are around 6’ in length and typically of a thin diameter, leashes for larger waves are longer and thicker. Match the leash with the conditions you will be surfing. The leash should be worn on the ‘rear’ foot. Make sure it is attached properly as failure results in loss of your personal flotation device. Use strong cord and tie a good knot.
There should also be a pad between the end of the leash and the deck plug on the surfboard. This is known as a ‘rail saver’ and it is designed to protect the rail of the surfboard from damage when the leash is stretched excessively at an angle. This should be attached so the rail-saver is tied tight up to the deck plug so the device can protect the rail of the surfboard as intended. If not positioned properly the attachment cord can tear through the fiberglass. The leash can also be dangerous if it gets caught or tangled in something. If this happens do not panic, calmly reach down and undo it. It can also be used to save someone in trouble. It is nearly impossible to find someone unconcious on the bottom in murky water if they are not using a leash.
A 'vertical ' surfboard typically means the surfer is deep with both the surfboard and leash stretched out. This could mean an unconcious surfer on the bottom. We call this a 'tombstoning' surfboard and do not like to see this. If you see this make sure the surfer comes up as you may need to assist or call for help. While this can happen anywhere it is more common at big wave breaks where the water is deeper. Keep in mind that your surfboard is a personal flotation device and it attached by your leash. always remember this!
Do not panic and deal with every situation in a calm manner.
Wax
The finish on a surfboard is smooth for a reason. Since you are lying on your stomach and paddling constantly, a rough surface will damage your skin. While there have been several attempts at full surface traction products, wax have survived for a reason. The main concern for wax is the temperature of the water that it will be used in; thus cold water and warm water wax. If you are surfing warm water you will have a difficult time applying cold water wax because it is denser and harder. Warm water wax is softer and goes on more liberally. Other than the cold and warm water differences; wax is a personal preference with various types, colors, and scents to choose from. A fresh coat of wax should be applied prior to entering the water. On a short board you do not want to wax the entire deck. Apply wax from the deck plug (or traction pad) in the rear to just slightly above center. You want the wax to end at where your front foot goes. This is important as it will help to prevent you from standing too far up on the board. Some surfers lightly wax the top of the rail where they push up with their hands so their hands will not slip. Do not get wax on the rails or the bottom of the board. On a long board you can wax the entire deck. Basecoat is an urban myth and you do not need it. You can keep a small piece of wax in your pocket or tuck it into the shoulder of your wetsuit. If you keep wax in your trunks, remove it after each use. If it finds its way into the clothes dryer, your clothes will be ruined. Traction pads have been around for a while now. While still somewhat expensive they seem to find their way onto every one of my boards. They provide a means to drive off the back foot really hard without slipping off the rear. Additionally, since the rear of the surfboard is constantly being pressured by the knee and the foot during duck-diving, these pads protect the rear surface of the board from delaminating (separation of glass and foam). When installing a pad makes sure the deck is free of wax. Line up the bottom of the pad about 1"-2" from the top of the deck plug allowing access to tie your leash. Make sure it is pressed down firmly in all areas and allowed to dry.
Wetsuits
The wetsuit is a very important part of your gear and make the difference between a good or bad session. Early wetsuits only covered the upper portions of the body and were extremely thick and uncomfortable. Modern wetsuits are made of multiple layers of foam rubber pre-molded to fit the body. You will also notice that they are measured in millimeters. The good suits have seams that are sealed and taped to prevent water intrusion. The cold water suits will be all 3mm suits while the moderate water suits may be 3/2mm. This means the legs and body are typically 3mm while the shoulders and arms are 2mm. Like most other surfing gear, wetsuits have evolved over the years into a product that enables us to surf comfortably in extreme temperatures while at the same time allowing us the flexibility to paddle and maneuver with minimal resistance. Beginning surfers tend to over-rubber. Since the weight of the wetsuit will have a negative effect and will exhaust you quicker, you should only wear what you need for the given conditions! No rubber if you can get away with it for sure! The ultimate is less or no wetsuit because you will be able to surf without any additional weight or resistance. Also suggest owning multiple suits for different temperature conditions, from a 2mm jacket, spring suit, short sleeve full, and full. On the colder days you will most likely have to add booties. Keep in mind that booties are difficult to swim in! On the colder days maybe a hood will be necessary. So the best advice would be to choose the right wetsuit for your zone. You can add to your quiver of wetsuits so you will be able to adjust to the varying conditions. When purchasing a wetsuit you should allow for a comfortable fit. Not too tight or loose. Better a suit that is slightly larger than one that is slightly smaller. If you live in a zone like Florida you can get away most of the time with a short sleeved full suit or a full suit that is not sealed. For colder waters you will need a full suit that has all of the seams sealed on the inside. To test seams in the suit, pinch the arm or leg off with your hand and blow into it. It should hold the air. Rash guards were initially used under the wetsuit to prevent chafing; these are now mostly used for sun protection. A long sleeve rash guard works great. There is also a step up rash guard model that is a little thicker typically used on a chilly day. You should already know not to stash your keys under your car because thieves watch for this. There is a key pocket in your wetsuit, a key loop in the pocket of your trunks, and even in your leash. Don’t get your key chain electronics wet!
