The Ocean
The ocean requires a measure of caution and a great deal of respect. Surfers are killed every year by various reasons. This section is dedicated to basic information regarding the ocean environment. It is not intended to go into great detail here, but to provide a basic understanding of the ocean environment as it applies to surfing. If you need more information there is plenty of information on the Internet.
There are basically two types of waves; scientifically they are known as spillers and plungers. Spillers are soft breaking waves found with gentle sloping bottoms such as the waves of Waikiki. Plungers are hard breaking waves such as Pipeline that accompany a quick transitioning bottom from deep to shallow. Surfers have numerous descriptions for the varying types. Mushy is used to describe meager conditions or gutless waves. When the waves are good you start to hear terms like ‘barrels’ ‘hollow’ or ‘throwing out’. Waves are measured from the trough to the crest in feet. However, the easiest way to provide a description is to use a range such as 1-3 feet, 2-4 feet, 3-5, or 12-15 feet. They can also be described as knee high, knee to waist high, chest high, overhead, double overhead, etc. Some surfers have been known to measure waves from the back but this is not an accurate means of describing the size of the wave. If someone is measuring from the back just assume the waves are VERY BIG!
Short board surfers tend to prefer the plunging type waves because they are more powerful. Long boarders prefer the softer waves like those found in Waikiki, or point breaks like Rincon and Malibu in California. Long boards tend to work better in these conditions as these boards have very little rocker and they are difficult to ride in steep fast breaking type waves. Swell angle, or the direction from which the waves are being generated is also important. This factor will help determine where you should plan to surf. It will determine where the energy will be focused. The swell angle can be determined by observing the primary direction of the swell, using north as ‘0 degrees’ and counting degrees clockwise. On a South swell, the energy will be focused on all South facing beaches and breaks and likewise for a North swell. A combined swell of North and South will push the waves together and make ‘peaky’ A-frame type waves. If you live in California and there is a South swell, all the beaches with a window to the South will have the larger waves. If you live in Hawaii and there is a North swell you would not surf on the South side of the island.
While ocean waves can be caused by many different events, the wind is the primary source. As the wind picks up it ripples the surface, then small waves form, then whitecaps, and finally large organized swells. The prevailing direction of the wind will focus the waves and determine swell direction. Large open ocean storms are capable of pushing strong waves thousands of miles. A storm of any significance usually will produce waves; however the size and quality of the swells are dependent upon the strength and duration of the storm. Wind is created by differences in barometric pressure. Since the better conditions are usually when the wind is offshore is important to understand what causes this. While offshore wind can be caused by a variety of factors, the typical morning offshore wind is created by a difference in barometric pressure between the land and the sea. As the sun rises, the land warms much faster than the sea creating a difference in a pressure and an offshore flow. As the pressure between land and sea equalizes and then changes the wind gradually calms and then switches to an onshore flow. The local weather conditions will determine if you will be riding choppy or glassy waves. If there is a strong swell but the harsh winds accompany it, you will experience what we term ‘victory at sea’, not the preferred conditions. Ultimately we want a strong swell, and offshore wind!
Currents
Will not go into great detail about ocean currents but will provide a review of the currents that apply to surfing. Near-shore currents or “rip currents” are usually formed by large amounts of water being forced towards the shore by wave energy. All this water must retreat, and a current forms. As waves pour shoreward over a shallow section, there is typically some type of channel that has developed where the water flows back out. This can be a channel in the reef, or a cut in the sandbar that allows the water to flow outward. Rip currents can usually be identified easily if you know what to look for. Most currents are visible by difference in color and texture. Look for a change in water color or texture since most rip currents tend to have some type of surface chop, almost like a river within a river. The water pours in over the reef or sandbar, as waves, then back out to sea usually through some form of channel as a rip current.
There is usually a rip current along a jetty or a pier. Before you enter a new break, take a couple of minutes to check it. Where there are waves there is usually a shallow bottom, and IMPORTANTLY, where there are NO waves there is a most likely channel and a rip current. You should pay attention to where other surfers enter and exit the water. If you can read these currents they can assist your paddle out or resist your return to shore.
Before you enter a new break, take a couple of minutes to check it thoroughly with your eyes, watch it carefully...and learn! Pay attention to where other surfers are entering the water, the size and frequency of the sets, and where the best waves seem to be breaking. You can also take this time to stretch. I like to begin my paddle out just after a big set has broken. The objective is to not to have a big set hit you as you reach the impact zone. Do not enter the water at a new break without some basic knowledge of the local ocean environment. Check for bottom type, currents, dangerous marine life, etc., so try to research the break before you go.
Tides
Tides are the result of the moons gravitational pull on the earth and vary significantly depending on where you are There are typically two tide transitions per 24 hour period, meaning two high tides and two low tides. Keep in mind that two are at night, leaving one high and one low during the daylight hours. The tides play a very key role in determining surfing conditions with higher tides bringing more water between the surfer and the bottom, lower tides less. For the typical beach break the higher tides will usually make waves miss the outside sandbar and break near the shore. The lower tides will make the waves break further outside. Beach break waves are more likely to close out at low tide unless the bottom is very well formed. The tide is more critical when surfing over a reef. A lower tide means less water on the reef and ultimately more dangerous. Some of the really good reef breaks are completely exposed at low tide and not even surfable. The best overall tide for surfing is mid-tide, even better mid-tide going high so you get extra push with the incoming tide. However, every break in different.
Sea Life
There are many things in the ocean that can sting, bite, or kill you. When the water is clear you can usually see shallow areas and things you need to avoid. In murky conditions you cannot. The bottom may be sharp or there may be something hidden beneath the surface. There may be sharp objects attached to the very rocks you are surfing or paddling over. Piers and jetties are also common surf breaks. The rocks or pilings almost always have barnacles, oysters, or mussels that will slice through wetsuit and skin. Lobster traps or their buoy lines can tangle in your leash. Kelp or seaweed can be friendly to surfers by protecting the surface of the water from surface chop and offering smooth glassy waves but you can also tangle in it easily. There may be sea urchins clinging to the rocks you have to get over. You may paddle over them going out but if the tide drops you may have to negotiate them by walking - this is common and has happened to me on numerous occasions (Caribbean, Mexico, and Costa Rica). There are stingrays, poisonous fish, and even deadly poisonous shells (cone shells). Suggest entering and exiting the ocean very carefully. You will also need to be wary of jellyfish - learn the different types and what they look like, just another part of our surfing environment.
As for the large toothy critters, they are part of the environment and you just have to understand this. Be careful of areas that have high concentrations of bait fish, or seal rookeries and try not to imitate their food or splash excessively. Best not to surf too early or too late as these are typically times when predators are more active. Trust your natural instincts and get out of the water if you need to. It is best to never surf alone!
Unfortunately also need to add something about localism. At any break in the world the local surfers will tend to protect their break from outsiders. The better the surf break, the more likely the threat of localism. Most of the world's good surf breaks are already populated with excellent surfers. They are good and they are aggressive, but you can learn from them. Also, while they will likely give you some major attitude, they are usually the first person s to help someone in trouble. Usually the most qualified to help someone in trouble. The suggested approach for localized spots is to respect their space and to surf very low key. May not want to stand out at a localized spot, this means do not wear a bright colored wetsuit or ride a bright colored board. Better off in a black wetsuit and a clear board. Surf early, dawn patrol is the way to get a couple of waves at a top spot before the local crew arrives. You can then shift to another spot.
Suggest not trying to learn when the waves are larger than 3 feet. Try specifically for small clean conditions and low tide. This will give you a better chance at actually getting outside where you need to be without getting too exhausted. If you choose a sandy beach break, the low tide should allow you to walk out a reasonable distance in waist deep water. It is also not advised to use a primary surfing areas as they are mostly crowded and a bit more dangerous for a beginning surfer. Recommend looking for a place with a sandy bottom just down from the crowd but within sight of other surfers and maybe a lifeguard.
